Roganic – Marylebone

At a recent family christening several guests who I’d not seen for a while, asked me how my blog was going. Shamefully I hadn’t posted anything since November last year so this gentle kick-up the proverbial got me back on the writing wagon.

Leaving my job in February after seven years, I was gifted with a wonderful leaving present of an 11 (yes 11) course tasting menu for two at Roganic in Marylebone. Beats a carriage clock or crystal decanter any day.

Roganic started out as a two year pop-up before becoming a permanent fixture just off Marylebone’s bustling high street. Chef Simon Rogan also runs L’Enclume in the Lake District which some of you may remember from BBC prog The Trip. He’s also just opened Roganic in Hong Kong which could be a nice compare and contrast exercise if I go again.

The website doesn’t give much away in terms of dishes with the descriptions kept as vague as possible such as celery, horseradish. This adds to the surprise element and lets you fully immerse yourself in the dishes as they arrive, spotting flavours and trying to work out others.

The thought of ploughing through 11 courses made me slightly anxious as too much food can be arduous to say the least. Also the restaurant is not what you would call a budget option, so I wondered whether an austere and quiet dining room would await us with humourless staff making the whole experience far from relaxing, Thankfully I was wrong on both counts.

We arrived on a sunny May lunchtime and were greeted by several chipper yet totally professional staff. The restaurant was light and airy with a nice buzz about the room. Tables were well spaced out meaning even the chatty table next to us didn’t invade our eating space.

Starting out with gin and tonics, one American and one local from Marylebone we didn’t even have menus to peruse so sat back and waited to get going.

Although 11 courses sounds utterly ridiculous the first plates are classed as ‘snacks’. Not Doritos-style snacks but a tiny blackberry and apple tart accompanied by an apple and anise palette cleanser to drink. Then a warm mushroom mousse sitting atop an vivid and punchy chive oil followed which was packed full of favour and delicious. Then, an asparagus spear cooked in chicken fat served with a gorgeous hollandaise and a dusting of crispy chicken skin. The asparagus was decorated with teeny elderflowers – which were so pretty I think may have even welled up. This beauty of a dish even came with a little hot towel as there was no ladylike way to eat it.

Each course was presented by a different member of the team – every person more than happy to answer questions, share their enthusiasm for the dishes and have a little bit of banter along the way. There was theatre for sure but certainly not in an eye-rolling over the top way.

Cutlery changed from course to course – a silver almost dagger-like knife for the dry aged Cumbrian beef course (mind blowing) – delicate spoons for others. Presentation was spot-on each time – plates and bowls pairing perfectly with the food which had been clearly prepared with such care and respect for its ingredients, many of which come from Our Farm in the Lake District’s Cartmel Valley.

I’m not keen on celeriac or goats cheese but still sampled dishes containing each of these and could appreciate the creativity that went into both.

The only course that was perhaps a little ‘off the wall’ was a Tunworth cheese ice cream. It was a tricky one to get your head round but somehow worked and pushed me out of my culinary comfort zone. The ice-cream featured a layer of cranberries – the overall flavour reminding me of one of those slightly jazzy Christmas Stiltons with fruit in them only much more sophisticated obviously. I’m sure Simon Rogan would be horrified at this comparison.

The menu will change frequently here and its hard to list and articulate all the many wonderful dishes. Standout courses for me were the lamb belly, the beef which was accompanied by a mini saucepan of beef ragu and surprisingly some simple freshly soda bread with cultured butter which was still warm from the oven.

We paid £85 a head which yes is expensive but this is not your average meal out. The service was absolutely flawless, the pace at which we were presented each course spot on, and the relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere made it absolutely worth it.

There’s a shorter tasting menu and also a set business lunch for £35 which would be fabulous as it features four of the same dishes from the tasting menu. If you want to add a wine pairing option to your meal you can do that too, but bearing in mind the number of courses I think you should consider carefully.

I think the cheapest wine was around the £40 mark with a concise but interesting list for a restaurant where you might expect a weighty tome of options to wade through. The sommelier was helpful when quizzed on our choice which turned out to be light and a perfect accompaniment for everything we enjoyed.

I’d apparently mentioned it was my birthday when booking which I’d forgotten (needy) and was presented with a glossy rich cake adorned with more flowers that was a lovely gesture. We thought it was coconut and chocolate. Apparently it was millet. Who knew?

Also as a standard gift we were presented with a little breakfast gift bag to take home with mini jams, earl grey teabags and hand wrapped cake. Nice.

If you are looking for an outstanding dining experience and are prepared to succumb to whatever is put in front of you I can totally recommend this place. It’s imaginative, friendly and a meal you won’t forget in a hurry.